Thursday, February 21, 2013

My Solo Trip to London

Ron's London Trip Part One
Just back from my London trip and it was a delight. I planned to walk as much as possible on this trip and to eat sensibly which for the most part I did. This was my first trip to London alone in many years and naturally I had mixed emotions as my wife loves the city as much as I do. But she wasn't able to get away so off I went.
Hotel:
The George Hotel in Cartwright Gardens. Smallish, tourist class hotel with singles for about £40--60 but I took an ensuite double for £75. Good sized room (17 x 18) with a small bathroom and double windows looking out on the gardens and tennis courts across the street . Good breakfast and free Internet access. Overall good value when you consider that my room could really accommodate three people. One double bed and one single.
What I did:
Waked from the hotel to Holland Park to take a picture on Lionel and Jean's flat on St. James Gardens. Crazy, I know, but we are big fans of As Time Goes By and I did promise my wife a picture. Stopped in Kensington Gardens along the way. The weather was really great on the whole trip but today was like a perfect spring day with people riding in Hyde Park and lots of people sunning themselves in K Gardens. Got some pix of the office (Type For You) and the flat (on St. James Gardens) and then headed down toward Kensington via Kensington Church St. Great street for walking a poking about. Stopped in at the Natural History and Science museums. The NHM has a wonderful exhibit on the Tyrannosaurus Rex with a very realistic T Rex growling and snapping at us as we walked by him (or her).
That night I tubed it down to Leicester Sq for dinner and took a chance on getting tickets for a show. Wanted to see Hay Fever with Dame Judi but no luck at the half prices booth so went to the box office and got a single in the 5 th row the next night. £50. With this success I went over to the Lyric Theatre and tried for tickets to see "Smaller" with dawn French (Vicar of Dibley) and got 5 th row seats again for Friday night.
Ate at a small Portuguese cafe on Earlham St. Had a delicious starter and a roast chicken with lemon and thyme, salad and homemade crisps. With one beer the bill was £13.60. Would definitely go back. Good food and very friendly. Afterward I walked down toward Piccadilly Circus and as I walked I heard a low roar in the distance ahead. I could not tell what it was but as I walked it grew louder and louder. Suddenly a group of what must have been 200--300 people on roller blades came around the corner led by a man on an oversized tricycle with a huge boom box blaring out music. Everyone on the street stopped to lookin amazement. What a sight!
Before the show I ate a pub in Covent Garden the name of which escapes me but had a nice meal off the specials board. Chicken breast roasted veggies and cous-cous ans a watercress pesto. with a Sam Smith's Best Bitter less than £11.
The show was great. Judi Dench and really the entire cast marvelous in this hysterically funny Noel Coward play. If its still playing see it is all I can say.
Afterward a quick bitter at the Lord John Russell pub aound the corner from my hotel and off to bed.
Today a trip to Hampstead. Took the Tube and then just walked around high street and the Heath and just took it easy sitting on benches and drinking coffee and watching the world go by. Wonderful, relaxing day.
Tickets for Smaller tonight so after Hampstead an afternoon nap and then off to Leicester Sq. again. Ate at a new restaurant on Wardour St called The Hummus Brothers. Wonderful, friendly place with great food. They serve you a large or small bowl of hummus and then you choose the topping and there are all sorts. I had the chicken. Absolutely wonderful and filling. For dessert I had the Malibi a custard like thing sweetened with honey and circled by a delicious chocolate sauce. I think my meal came to £7 or 8.
Now the show. When I got to the theatre I new something was wrong. A lot of people milling about outside. One of the two stars Allison Moyet had come down with food poisoning and since the part was written for her no one could stand in. However the theatre promised everyone a refund or an exchange ticket. I was lucky. I got an exchange ticket for Monday night. Crowd took it very well. I charming but harried manger did all he could to smooth things over. He did it very well. While I was waiting for my new ticket I leaned over to him and said "I have a feeling you'll be going out for a drink after work tonight." He leaned in and said "I've already had two!"
Since the show was canceled I rushed back to the hotel and picked up my camera and tripod and headed out for some night shots. You can't keep a good man down.

Travel Journal
Ron's London Trip Part two
Saturday it was Greenwich. I decided to take the boat from Westminster Pier, an easy and cheap day out. I took a single to Greenwich and the Thames Barrier which is £8.70 but with 1/3 off for travel card or Oysters ticket holders.
The trip along the river was delightful with a very charming and witty narration along the way. Definitely a must do excursion especially if its nice weather, The Thames Barrier is incredible. An engineering marvel. The guide's narration point out that the Millennium Dome cost £500,000 to construct and hasn't been used at all for five or more years whereas the Barrier cost £ 400,000 and may literally save the city from destruction one day. Hmmm. Anyway Greenwich is fun. The town is great with lots of little shops and eating places. all over. Good trip.
I had planned to take the Docklands Light Rail back to London but noticed that there was a bus that went directly to Russell Sq. The # 188 is a double decked and takes about the same time a the train but with a better view.
Picked up sandwiches and drinks for the Tesco Express across from Russell Sq tube station rested up for the evening. By the way the prices at those Tesco Express store are very reasonable for London. You can get a sandwich or a salad for less than £2 and a 2 litre bottle of their own spring water is only .44 pence.
Popped into the local Boots on Marchmont and picked up my wife's favorites" The 30 Days Mascara and Eye Brightener neither of which is available in the US so I got two of each.
After resting I was out again to explore this fascinating city. Tonight it was the Sloane Sq area which I like very much. Later I walked up though Knighsbridge ending up at the Nag's Head one of my favorite pubs in London if not the world.
Sunday was my trip to Brighton. A £17 cheap day return for Victoria and it lets you off within easy walking distance of everything. Brighton is something. A faded, likeable seaside city. The pier and the Royal Pavilion are the main attractions but worth a day out in my estimation. Just don't expect too much. The fun fair rides are fun indeed and the people watching is second to none.
Had Chinese food at the China House right near the hotel (good meal and a good value at £7 for a whole meal) In bed early and a good night's rest tonight.
Next day off to explore Clerkenwell. Bank Holiday today so very quiet in the area. Smithfield's Market closed it appeared. Charming and up and coming area from whet I could see. My main purpose was to take a shot of the Building used as Porriot's flat in the series. Nice sort of Art Deco (?) building with a little private garden in front.
That night was the postponed performance of "Smaller" at the Lyric. Dinner before at Nanobyte on Wardour St. Nanobyte is a very trendy, hip sort of .... Gastropub? And I am unhip and whatever the opposite of trendy is but the place is amazing. Friendly and welcoming, it has an open feel to it and amazingly free of smoke although it is permitted. I had roast pork with apple cider chutney and "perfect new potatoes and broccoli and an order of bread from what they describe as the oldest Italian bakery in London. And it was some great meal for £9.
"Smaller" was fantastic! Darkly funny and beautifully and inventively staged the two leads, Dawn French and Allison Moyet are very good but it is June Watson who plays their mother, Maureen who is the real star of this show. She literally steals the piece. She must two thirds of the dialogue in the show (well she is disabled and house bound) talking almost non stop at times. Wonderful to see such acting live. Must see if you can
Next day after breakfast I had a second cup in Russell Square. What a setting. The Square is looking better than ever with an amazing display of flowers everywhere. The cafe has outdoor tables of course or just sit on a bench and watch London go by.
My Travel Card ran out today and I bought an Oyster Card. The ONLY way to go! Wish we had it here in Boston. Next time its Oyster all the way.
Later back to the British Museum (can't get enough). Bought a nice pair of earrings for my wife there then on to the National Gallery where I found a new portrait of Geoffrey Palmer looking suitably curmudgeonly. (Why does my wife tell me how much he reminds her of me?) I wanted to buy a postcard print of it to hang next to Dame Judi on the fridge but, sadly it not available.
Then on to a noontime concert at St. Martin in the Field's which was another delight. Then the #91 bus from the Strand back to Russell Sq. Dinner at the North Sea Fish Restaurant. Fish & Chips (excellent and reasonable at less than £10)
Just a casual stroll around Bloomsbury that night and early to bed.
Last day today. Off to Shoreditch and the Geffrye Museum. I decided to walk there of course and it is a hike but lots to look at along the way.
This museum is a real find. A bit out of the way but worth the trip. Its a museum of interior design through the ages with rooms from each period. They have a lovely cafe and the grounds are charming.
As an aside on way I saw a young woman struck by a bicycle as she was getting off a bus. It was absolutely terrible. She must have been on her way to work form the way she was dressed and when the bus opened the doors for the passengers she stepped out and a cyclist tried to pass the bus on the left hand side at a very high rate or speed slamming into her full force. At first I thought it might even be fatal. Such was the violence of the impact. Luckily I think in the long run she was injured but alright. Everyone stopped to try to help and the cyclist although injured himself was good about seeing that she was cared for as well he might since he was clearly in the wrong. Eventually an ambulance arrived and treated both of them and took the woman off to hospital. Shocking but I do think that all came out as well as could be expected.
Took the bus (#242?) back to Holborn and sat in Lincoln's In Fields in the sun. Thought about that poor girl and the bicyclist and wondered how they were doing. Its amazing how everything can change in a instant. Enjoy life as much as you can.
My last night in London (for now, anyway) I ate the Friend at Hand pub around the corner on HerbrandSt. I tried to go to restaurants and pubs I hadn't been to before on this trip and for the most part I did but this pub is good and you can eat right at the bar where, by the way, smoking is not allowed. Good food, friendly staff and a Sam Smith's Best Bitter is only £1.90! Honey I'm home! Had a steak sandwich and three beers for £10.95.
Next day my goodbye stroll around my little neighborhood and then off to Heathrow for the trip home. All in all a wonderful and relaxing trip. That should hold me for a while. HA! You'd think so but I'm already planning for the next trip this time with my wife though.
Cheers
PS: Remember all the angst about which umbrella I should take? The big one the small one etc. etc. Well in the end I took the small one which fits nicely in my suitcase. Never even opened it!

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